Website- Peak Freak Expeditions

Thursday, 30 October 2014

Cheyne Stokes at Altitude

Peak Freaks once again enjoyed a day of instruction at the base of Lobuche Peak. Rope rescue and
other survival techniques were rehearsed.

Romano from Australia has beens struggling with a condition related to altitude known as Cheyne Stokes, it's inhibiting his ability to sleep soundly. I've experience this myself at altitude and typically a very small percent of our participants will - especially on Everest at Camp 3 if they are not supplemented with oxygen. For that reason we supplement all our Everest climbers at Camp 3 to get the full rest they need pre-summit push.

Tim and Romano discussed his options as he's not been able to sleep for several days and as a result is losing much needed energy for the summit push. He decided to retreat to the village of Lobuche to enjoy two full nights sleep before the summit bid tomorrow.

Cheyne Stokes are related to low oxygen saturation and for some who suffer from this , their body is alerted to gasp for air and this reaction jolts the climber awake each time he or she starts to relax as the result of taking in less oxygen. Or for some, they don't wake but their tent mate is kept awake listening to irregular breathing patterns of the person next to them. They will sound as though they've quit breathing and then gasp but never wake themselves from their slumber.  If this goes on for more than 2 or 3 nights it can be the end of a climbers ascent higher as the only cure is to retreat, spend more time at the elevation they were last comfortable and gradually try to ascend again. For some they can hit the wall each time at the same elevation no matter how long they are there, and try.

Another thing we see on high altitude climbs is a condition that has nothing to do with altitude. It's claustrophobia. Anyone that has not experienced life on a major expedition that requires sleeping in tents for multiple days may learn something new about themselves. Something they wouldn't have known till they tried it. This condition is more common than most would think. We've already lost a few participants on this expedition at this stage of the climb. Once again this can be for some- the"boot" in boot camp.

These are two very good reasons to join this program and spend only $7K instead of $20K or $50K to find out your body chemistry just doesn't work for you up here or expedition style climbing is not for you before making the big investment in time away and money.


High camp tomorrow, rest, hangout, summit push at some gaud awful hour in the middle of the night.


Wind will be the highest it is this week and Tim said that is exactly what he was hoping for. Just another reality test of what to expect on big mountains such as Everest and what it feels like to climb in harsh conditions. It won't be that bad, but they will get a bit of a simulation. 

Stay tuned!

"Triple Crown Mountaineering Course"

Tuesday, 28 October 2014

Lobuche East Route and Weather information

Tim called in a quick namaste as they were coming down Kala Pattar at 07:30 NPT yesterday. They
Lobuche East

got their morning sunrise shots and were on their way to Lobuche base camp where they'd be now all tucked in.

They are obviously getting spoiled living in the comforts of camp. He grumbled about having a bad sleep last night because a trekker next door in the teahouse where they lodged, was snoring. He said he couldn't wait to get back into his tent.

That's just some of the joys of this expedition: Small scale, off the beaten track, moderate altitudes for the Himalayas, learning some mountaineering skills and about staying safe,  good and clean cooking at base camp and your own space to sleep at night in your tent, quiet and with great views. All of the above is why we created these trips.

Not to forget that it's a great tool for climbing big mountains. Here's a testimony that just came in from a past participant that I thought I'd share.

"If you aspire to climb Everest there is no better training program that I am aware of that puts you right on the spot. Tim and his professional crew puts you to the test in the exact environment you will eventually meet on the big E.  A complete and good set-up of camps  is all important in high altitude climbing, Peak Freaks is second to none when it comes to quality camps.
Lars, Norway, Summited Everest 2012."
Ha en fin dag

Med vennlig hilsen
Lars Haugen

Tomorrow Lobouche East? either a rest day or begin their ascent. Not sure what their plan is, I'll update when I hear.


There are two distinct summits on Lobuche Peak- Lobuche East (6119m/20,75m) and Lobuche West (6145m/20,016ft.) Although a continuous ridge connects them there is a sharp gap and a considerable distance between them. Lobuche is an attractive summit, offering a variety of existing routes and a wide scope for new lines. Seen from Pheriche, the dark triangle of its rocky East Face rises above the moraines of the Khumbu Glacier to an icy skyline. The skyline forms the South Ridge, the junction of the East Face with the glaciated South-West Face and the line of the normal route of the ascent. This in turn leads to the summit ridge running northwest from the top of the East Face through several small summits to the East Peak.


All holding just fine, clear in the morning a few skiffs of snow in the afternoon. It looks like they'll get their climb in before the wind starts to impact the area if they push it. The seasonal high winds that increase the windchill factor is in the forecast. If they get going earlier rather than later, they'll get their summit in under the wire.

Looking good!

Triple Crown Expedition

Monday, 27 October 2014

Triple Crown- Photo Upload

Great! We finally get some photos of the group who are now in Gorak Shep for the night after crossing the Konga La pass and grabbing that photo opp at the entrance of Everest Base Camp.

They came over the pass from Pokalde while the animals went down Chukung way and back to Pheriche because the pass was a bit too icy for them. They'll have camp setup late tomorrow afternoon  at the base of Lobuche and in the meantime the team is going to go up Kala Pattar tomorrow to catch some views and photos of the Khumbu Icefall, Everest North and South, Lhotse and Nuptse. Afterwards they'll retreat and make their way to Lobuche base camp.

Nothing more to report other then they are doing great and it's life as normal in the Himalayas for our team.  That's why Tim loves this climb: no crowds of people, off the beaten path and no politics. Climbing as it should be!


Sunday, 26 October 2014

Not sleepless in Pokalde base camp

Team reports having a great day working more rock and ice skills tuning up for Lobuche East (6119m-20,075ft) in two days time. The tired team is all checked into their tents early tonight and getting some serious shut eye.

Our base camp trek team members are in Lukla tonight celebrating their last with Ang Nima and crew and are hoping for clear skies tomorrow morning for flights in and out of Kathmandu on schedule. The morning skies have been beautiful with an occasional skiff of snow just 1 or 2 cm here and there, nothing significant. Most of the precipitation appears to be hanging lower in the valley so it is possible Lukla could experience a few hiccups getting flights in and out on schedule. Nothing big in the horizon that would warrant trapping them there for days on end that can, and has happened in the past.

Tomorrow the TC team will pack up and head over to Lobuche base camp and prepare for their final ascent on this adventure. Everyone is holding strong and having a lot of fun.

Saturday, 25 October 2014

Adventure Full Circle

Photo of Triple Crown climber John Forestell attempting to lift a porters basket.

We first met John with his mother and father two sister from Lethbridge, AB, Canada while on a Peak Freak EBC trek in 2001, he was only 8 years old. He still holds the record for our youngest trekker. 

He's come full circle returning to Nepal to climb some of those peaks that impressed him at such a young age. 

We think that's very cool. 


Friday, 24 October 2014

SUMMIT SUCCESS Pokalde 5806m

Tim just called in from the summit with the entire team at approximately 10:00hrs NPT.

Everyone is cheering!!!!!!!    He said there wasn't much room on the summit for all of them but they're squeezed in tight to for photos that we'll hopefully see sometime soon.

He said its been a great climb and they are all having so much fun. They are on their way down now to celebrate and then tomorrow make a move on over the Lobuche East, the final climb of the three peaks.

Congratulations team!!!

"Triple Crown Mountaineering Course"

Thursday, 23 October 2014

EBC Team on top Kala Pattar right now!!!

Tim just checked in 07:00hrs NPT. Everyone is sleeping in this morning at Pokalde base camp except for him and Ang Karsung and Paulden who he says are giving me a big wave.

Our Everest Base Camp trek group are on Kala Pattar right now getting the sunrise on a beautiful morning.


Today they team will be getting out on some rock and ice. Tim said John Forestell in particular is super stoked for this part of the trip. He's fully recovered now and is wired for energy.

Tomorrow the plan is to make their summit push on Pokalde, retreat and spend the night there at camp and then tackle objective number three- Lobuche East-the grand finale .


I see a light dusting of snow probably 1 to 3 cm of snow that won't cause any avalanche concerns but the view may not be as good as it can be from the top of Pokalde.

That's it for now.....  here's a little video I found from someone showing the view panorama from atop Kala Pattar for those who've not seen it before.

Stay tuned for the next summit push.

"Tripel Crown Mountaineering Course"